Westland Lynx Mk.88 Model Kit: Build Tips and Finishing Guide

By Modellbau & Plastikmodellbau | Published: 2026-10-16

Category: How-to Guides

A step-by-step guide to building the 1:72 Westland Lynx Mk.88, from parts prep and painting to decals and final finishing, with a common mistake to avoid at each stage.

Quick answer

Build the Westland Lynx Mk.88 in subassemblies, paint as you go, and treat decals as the final step before a flat or satin clear coat. With only 50 parts in 1:72 scale, the kit rewards careful cleanup and patient masking more than advanced techniques. Follow the order below and check each step before moving on.

What you need before you start

The Westland Lynx Mk.88 kit contains 50 parts in 1:72 scale and builds to a finished length of 211 mm and height of 44 mm. Because the part count is low, most of your time will go into seam cleanup, masking, and decal work rather than assembly. Set out a fine side cutter, sanding sticks or wet-and-dry paper in 600 and 1000 grit, a hobby knife, tweezers, and a small cutting mat. For painting, a primer, the main airframe colors, a clear gloss for decals, and a clear flat or satin for the final coat will cover the build. If you normally use an airbrush, you can still complete this kit with spray cans; just work in thin, light passes.

How to plan the build order

Do not follow the instruction sheet as a single straight line. Divide the kit into four subassemblies: cockpit and interior, fuselage halves, rotor and tail, and landing gear. Paint each subassembly before closing it up where the interior will be visible. Keep the rotor and landing gear separate until the fuselage is painted and decaled, because they are easy to snap off while handling. This order also lets you use the same paint session for parts that share a color.

Painting and masking the airframe

Prime the parts in light coats and let the primer cure fully before sanding back any roughness. For the main airframe, apply thin color coats rather than one heavy pass; heavy coats soften fine surface detail and can fill panel lines. When masking for a multi-color scheme, press the tape edge down firmly and burnish it with a toothpick, then spray away from the tape edge to reduce bleed. If you are brush painting, thin the paint slightly and apply two or three coats instead of one thick one.

Decals and final finishing

Apply a clear gloss coat before decals so the carrier film has a smooth surface to sit on. Cut individual decals from the sheet rather than sliding them off as a block, and use a setting solution sparingly on complex curves. Once the decals are dry, inspect for silvering under bright light before sealing them. Finish with a clear flat or satin coat to unify the decals with the paint, then add the rotor and landing gear. Keep the model out of direct sunlight and dust while the final coat cures.

Build steps with checkpoints

Wash and inspect the sprues: Rinse the sprues in lukewarm water with a drop of mild dish soap to remove release agent, then let them air dry. While they dry, check each part against the instructions and note any minor flash or mold seams. Checkpoint: no shiny or greasy feel on the plastic before you prime.
Clean up parts before assembly: Remove parts with a fine side cutter, leaving a small stub, then trim and sand flush. Sand seams on the fuselage halves and rotor blades with 600 grit, then refine with 1000 grit. Common mistake: sanding round or rivet detail flat. Work slowly and check the profile often.
Build and paint the cockpit first: Assemble the interior, paint it, and let it cure before closing the fuselage. Test-fit the cockpit tub into the fuselage halves so you know it seats without force. Checkpoint: the fuselage halves close with no gap around the cockpit opening.
Join the fuselage and fix seams: Apply a thin bead of cement along the join, press the halves together, and hold or tape them until the bond sets. After curing, sand the seam and re-scribe any panel line that crosses it. Common mistake: using too much cement and melting detail. Less cement, applied precisely, gives a cleaner seam.
Prime and paint the airframe: Prime in light coats, then apply the main colors in thin passes. Mask multi-color areas with burnished tape and spray away from the tape edge to limit bleed. Checkpoint: color coverage is even and panel lines are still visible under the paint.
Apply decals over a gloss coat: Seal the paint with a clear gloss, then apply decals one at a time using setting solution on curved areas. Blot excess solution with a soft cloth and let each decal dry before touching it. Common mistake: moving a decal after it starts to grab. Position it once, then leave it alone.
Seal and attach the rotor and gear: Apply a clear flat or satin coat over the decals, then attach the rotor assembly and landing gear. Handle the model by the fuselage, not the rotor, once these parts are on. Next step: let the final coat cure fully before placing the model on a shelf or in a display case.

Product facts

Westland Lynx Mk.88: Westland Lynx model kit in 1:72 scale with 50 precisely crafted parts, a length of 211 mm, and a height of 44 mm. The low part count and compact size make this a manageable project for a modeler who wants a detailed helicopter without a long build.